garden glow
Posts:688
 | | 07/07/2007 10:01 AM |
 Alert | everyone contributed in the past are lost...I guess we'll have to rely on memory..or START posting some of the ones you remember..
Here's one recently discussed..."CITRUS TREES"...
Keep them shaded and watered well..all plantings including "heat tolerant" ones are suffering "burn" damage due to the weather and high uv's...courtesy of Dan and Bob from Leaf and Feather Farms...p.s. those two little "babies" are still hanging on (even after last nights sand-storm) can't wait till they ripen!! | |
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NickEl19655
Posts:60
| | 07/07/2007 12:05 PM |
Alert | | My citrus trees are 2.5 yrs old and aren't producing anything yet . my Lil navels all fell off about 2 months ago and i don't see any lemons and well my clementine has leaves that's all. hmph ! we deep water every week and fertilize every 3 months like the bag says and we got squat ! | | | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/12/2007 12:36 AM |
Alert | | NickEl19655...try calling Leaf and Feather.. those guys have a wealth of knowledge and love to share it.. I'm just learning about citrus trees and their habits..so I wouldn't want to lead you in the wrong direction..never had the luxury of tending to citrus back in jersey.. | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/13/2007 1:33 AM |
Alert | | Mulch...why does everyone push their rocks to the base of their plants? Rocks do not help maintain the moisture you are attempting to give your plants..actually rocks heat up in the sun and will dry out your soil..they also do not allow for up-shoots..the rocks are too heavy at times and can stunt any attempt of the plant to expand. Push your rocks away from the base of your plants or trees and invest in a bad of mulch..shredded wood chips...shredded coconut shavings ..whatever your pleasure..for the cost of maybe $4.00 to $6.00 you could save what you have invested in your landscape! JMHO! | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/17/2007 11:18 PM |
Alert | | I posted some info under general chat..anyone lose trees last night..might be beneficial to those of you that frequent Home and garden..staking young trees and the need not to... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/17/2007 11:53 PM |
Alert | | Lock your gates....if you have someone servicing your rear yard you can either give them a key or leave it unlocked the day of service. leaving it UNLOCKED at all times enables your yard and maybe your home to become vulnerable to whomever chooses to wander in... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/24/2007 11:14 PM |
Alert | I was astounded and saddened today upon seeing all the unnecessary damage to trees not only on private property but on common areas as well..
No tree should be staked for more than 4 months... staking is meant to be temporary...especially if it is a young tree..allowing a tree trunk to sway and bend in the wind aids in the trunk becoming strong and resilient..
if you are a die-hard for staking then remove the green plastic tie supports to allow for some swaying of the trunk..but leave the soft collar intact..
better yet...slide the soft collar down the trunk aprox 6 inches above ground and SAW off those hard-wood stakes to 12 inches above ground..
If your tree was up-rooted..act quickly and you may still have time to save it..even if you don't think you know what you're doing..by simply up-righting the tree and getting the root ball under dirt..the tree will have a greater chance of survival..leaving the roots exposed to the sun will surely contribute to your trees demise..
If your tree LOOKS HEAVY..it is and will most likely fall victim to high winds..just by trimming off some heavy top branches you can alleviate unneeded stress and weight. | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/29/2007 9:45 AM |
Alert | Don't be afraid to pinch back your plants (indoor or outdoor) especially if they are "leggy"....just use your thumb and index finger and pinch off the soft stem...your plant may appear much smaller but only for a short time...by pinching back you will encourage the plant to "fill out" and produce more flowers..
The same theory applies to the practice of "dead-heading"...pinch off the bloom when it appears to have peaked...stunting seed production and encouraging more blooms... | |
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OBG II
Posts:515
| | 07/29/2007 10:52 AM |
Alert | I have never heard of anyone shading citrus trees.
In fact, all the tips I have read on growing citrus is that the tree likes sun.
The trunk is another matter. | |
Brains, nerve and beauty all in one package! A win win for the Republicans!
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bizybeth
Posts:569
| | 07/29/2007 11:31 AM |
Alert | | We lost a few despite plenty of water in the 116 degree days. We started to lightly shade some now during the hottest points of the day for a few hours and it seems to have helped tremendously. | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/29/2007 10:31 PM |
Alert | OBG II ...the first post was a carry over...before the rains came many plants and young trees were suffering stress from the excessive heat and experiencing 'sunburn'...that was the same time I purchased my citrus tree.... the guys at L+F told me to keep it shaded...they had all their citrus trees and many heat tolerant plants shaded...
Bob and Dan have many years experience in the care they give their plants on the farm and seem to have a sixth sense what a plants needs are when it comes to them adapting to AZ weather conditions...
I have yet to see an ailing specimen..that was tended by them...
If they told me I had to go out and hug my citrus tree three times a day..well I'd probably hug it 4 times a day..LOL
No citrus trees are NOT always shaded..just young ones need to be at times...kinda the same thing when a frost threatens them... the growers do whatever it takes to help them survive.
They do coat the lower trunk to aid in shading.... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 07/29/2007 10:43 PM |
Alert | | By the way...my tree is still shaded..a little leaf loss from the storms..but new growth has already begun...and those two little babies are now toddlers... | |
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OBG II
Posts:515
| | 07/30/2007 7:00 AM |
Alert | Perhaps a clarification would read:
Do not plant citrus in permanent shade.
Do shade new plants in May and June and during the hottest part of the day the rest of the summer. | |
Brains, nerve and beauty all in one package! A win win for the Republicans!
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bizybeth
Posts:569
| | 07/30/2007 9:31 AM |
Alert | | Ours too are on the mend, happy to get real rain. They like the few hours of shade they get (except our toasted l'il calamondin- may it RIP) | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 08/18/2007 11:21 PM |
Alert | It's been awhile...here's a scenario I came across recently....
A home in RED had a 'fallen tree" due to the "storm"...well the wind DID have a little something to do with the tumble ...the homeowner wanted us to up-right it.
What really caught my eye initially was the "hole" the tree was planted in...it was more than 20 inches below ground level surrounded on all sides with steep slopes.
I was a little confused because the owner said she had the landscaping done about one year ago...hmmmm? the tree was at least 3-5 yrs old hmmm?
Then it was revealed the tree was already there when she bought the house but she had the builders landscaping company come in and upgrade the landscaping. The upgrade consisted of them adding a few plants and mounds of dirt and rock to give the yard some depth...great concept...POOR execution...
The mounds they created AROUND this tree contributed 100 percent to it's demise...the root ball was completely rotted and detached from the trunk...and it had begun to hollow out from the bottom of the trunk...basically the drip system and rainfall created a swamp and drowned this tree. It was purely coincidence that it toppled the day after a storm...I could have blown it down myself...it now lies in the bed of my truck...
My advice....make sure your plants, bushes and trees are level with the ground and if you choose to have some height in your yard be sure to plant on top of the mound......don't assume EVERYONE in the business has your interest at heart or the proper knowledge...even if they are your builders choice...after all...they will never see you again.
Something else I've learned....drip lines dedicated to your trees should not be closer than 15-20 inches at the base of the trunk...the theory...if the water source is too close the roots do not have to search for water...result... a stunted root ball. Allowing the roots to search encourages a wider and deeper root system...
Ever notice the trees in town that have fallen have virtually no roots...while in a natural setting a fallen tree has a complex root system...? | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 08/22/2007 4:29 PM |
Alert | When you have your property landscaped have them tell you the names of the plants/trees/bushes they are planting...then draw yourself a
Garden Reference Map...nothing fancy..just put the name of the planting where it is located in the yard...if YOU are the gardener you can research what the plants needs are and keep a
"time to do" schedule....i.e....fertilize, division/transplant, rejuvenating prune, growth expectancy, flowering times , etc... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 08/31/2007 9:11 PM |
Alert | We arrived this morning to do some work we noticed WASPS...not a couple...not a dozen....at minimum a hundred they were in all the trees, bushes, desert grasses etc.. in both the front and rear yard......when I originally saw the property (abt. 2 weeks ago) there were no sign of them...
Fortunately, we DID see them this am and avoided a dangerous situation.
We had a hunch where the nest was ..but to be sure... we went back at dusk tonight to see where they returned for the night...yep two desert grass plants each having their own nest!
My point, for your safety...look around and observe the area before you dive in...you never know what might be lurking! | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 09/08/2007 11:34 PM |
Alert | While researching for a customer...I came across this site...
www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?/pagename=pro_apcc_toxic-plants
If your pets frequent your backyard then you may want to visit this site..it lists COMMON plants that may be in your yard that are toxic to your pets...ranging from indigestion to fatality...
Aloe, Asparagus Fern, Lily, Oleander, Bird of Paradise, Sago Palms, Chinese Evergreen Elm, Yucca's, and many others... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 09/13/2007 12:44 PM |
Alert | | Just a clarification... "Ulmus parvifoia"....common name Chinese Evergreen Elm and Chinese Elm same tree..two common names....it is not truly an evergeen..it is decidious and looses its leaves all through the year... | |
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garden glow
Posts:688
| | 09/16/2007 8:24 AM |
Alert | Queen Palms.....a clean palm but high maintenance to keep it looking healthy...I know many of them were damaged by the frost last winter (hardy to about 25 degrees) but, if yours is still showing green you can give it a real boost.
Best time to prune out dead or damaged fronds is now..September through October and then after winter March to the second week of May.
Queens require four different applications
1) a soil conditioner...3 times a year..read the directions carefully..if you apply it to closely to the trunk you can cause chemical burns to the fronds..
2) a fertilizer 16-8-2...3 times a year and one is due NOW..
3) manganese spikes...or 31%..2 times a year..NOW
4) fungicide...for the prevention and treatment of crown rot (the new buds) if the crown is not infected 3 times a year...if infected..more applications will be needed....
Sound like a lot of work..it is but if you've ever seen a HEALTHY Queen Palm...I think it's well worth the effort... | |
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